Congolese Kuba People Fabric: "Kuba Cloth" , "Tcaka" Skirt Panel

This is a piece of Kuba cloth originating in the Democratic Republic of Congo. This is a panel from a long piece of fabric worn as a skirt called a "tcaka." The original, full skirt would have measured from 8 to 25 feet long. Undecorated panels of the cloth, called "mbal," were, historically, used as money.

This textile is tightly woven using strands from raffia palm leaves. Raffia strands are also interwoven between the warp and weft to create intricate geometric patterns. To create Kuba cloth, vegetable dyes are used on raffia threads that are then embroidered onto finished cloth to create patterns.

Men are responsible for the growing, tending, harvesting and weaving of the cloth. The women prepare the fabric for decoration by pounding the stiff, rough cloth in a large wooden mortar until it is softened.  

Decorative techniques include applique and reverse applique, dyeing, tie-dyeing and resisted-dyeing, and patchwork. Patchwork in Kuba cloth covers the holes that result from pounding the cloth to soften it.

Kuba cloth comes in two styles. One style has a rich and velvety pile. The women create the cut pile embroidered panels as well. To create cut pile cloth, the embroideress softens the tips of raffia threads by gently chewing them and rolling them on her thigh. Then, using an iron needle, she pulls them through the surface of the fabric underneath a weft element. The tightness of the weave holds the thread in place without knotting. The second style has a flat weave will little or no pile.

Traditional appliqued Kuba cloth is now used for ceremonial skirts, wall hangings, or mats for sitting and sleeping. Skirts and embroidered Kuba textiles were produced and used for ceremonial occasions and court rituals.

Source:
http://www.authenticafrica.com/kubclotstrip1.html http://textilesandfabricofafrica.com/textile_and_fabric_history.html