Panamanian Kuna People Blouse: "Mola"

The Kuna women of the San Blas islands of Panama make decorated blouses called molas. The molas themselves are rectangular decorations that are then sewn onto the front and back panels of the women's blouses.

The technique is best described as "reverse applique". Two or more cloths of contrasting colors are placed on top on one another and basted together at the corners, along the edges and in certain points across the surface. The design outline is marked in soft pencil on the top layer of cloth. The design line is then cut on the top layer. The edges are turned under and hemmed to the lower layer of cloth. The next layers of cloth are cut along the same lines until the background cloth is reached. Larger patterns are cut from the top piece and progressively smaller ones from the successive under layers. The mola panel is two to seven layers of cloth, usually light-textured cotton cloth with a firmer background layer.

Girls, emulating their mothers, begin sewing molas at around 7 years old. All work is done by hand, using a needle, thimble and small pointed scissors. Eyesight begins to be damaged after the age of 35.

Mola art developed in the late 1800s, when Kuna women had access to store bought yard goods. The word "mola" is a Kuna term that originally meant "suit" or "dress." The term now refers to a finished blouse with rectangular pieces of reverse-appliqued cloth sewn to the back and front of blouse. Geometric molas are the most traditional, having developed from ancient body painting designs.

Many hours of careful sewing are required to create a fine mola. The ability to make an outstanding mola is a source of status among Kuna women. The quality of a mola is determined by such factors as the number of layers, the fineness of stitching, the evenness and width of the cutouts, the addition of details such as zigzag borders, lattice-work or embroidery, the general artistic merit of the design and color combination. 

Prior to European contact, the Kuna People occupied the central part of Panama and the San Blas Islands. Today they live primarily on the islands, which are controlled by Panama.
Source:
Mola Art from the San Blas Islands, Capt. Kit S. Kapp, 1985, Lib. Of Congress 78-190738
http://www.panart.com/molainfo.htm About Molas, Florida State University Isthmian Anthropology Society, 1969.
Mola Art, Capt. Kit S. Kapp, 1972, Library of Congress 778-190738
http://www.britannica.com/topic/Kuna